THE ANCIENT, THE LATESTOne can go forward or backward in Tokyo, but rarely remain in one place. For a fascinating rst hand look at what Tokyo was like in the early 20th century, take walk through the gratefully intact traditional Japanese residence of one Kusuo Yasuda, whose affluent family lived in the Sendagi district home after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923. There are formal Japanese salons and a western drawing room with original furnishings, an enchanting kitchen, a fallout shelter from World War II, and a gracious tatami mat bedroom on the second oor overlooking a lovely garden. Open only on Wednesdays and Saturdays, 10:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.Faster than a speeding bullet, the world famous Shinkansen began operations a few days before the 1964 Tokyo Olympic Games as the fastest train in the world and remains the transportation of choice for millions of Japanese who use it daily. With maximum speeds of 320 kilometers an hour, today's Shinkansen has come a long way from the rather bleak, socialist-looking, 210 kph original. Traversing most of the country in extraordinary smoothness, many of the cars feature luxurious seating, designated stewards, beverages and meals in the premium Grand Class cars.8

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