Travels and Choices: The Story of Thierry Voisin

Chef Thierry Voisin heads Les Saisons, serving Fine French Cuisine in the Imperial Hotel, Tokyo that has earned one star in the MICHELIN Guide Tokyo for 18 consecutive years since 2008. This April, Chef Voisin celebrated his twenty year career at Les Saisons. Here he shares his personal insights into Japan, his journey as a chef, and the many dishes he has created at Les Saisons.

Born in Tours, France, Voisin's story as a chef all began with a small trip.

Do You Want to Have a Look in the Kitchen?

"You made the right choice."

With a smile, Voisin delivered a brief message to guests who have chosen the Imperial Hotel.

While he has spent twenty years leading Les Saisons, his journey with cuisine goes back fifty years.

"When I was eight years old, I went on a vacation with my family to a town called Sarlat in Périgord, in central France. While we were enjoying lunch, the chef asked me, "Want to know the secrets of the kitchen?" There are no chefs among my relatives. The kitchen, lined with so many pans and pots, was a space I’d never seen before. It was an unbelievable and incredible experience. I was captivated in an instant."

On that day, a young boy decided to step into the world of cuisine. He began his career at the age of fifteen, and in 1995 he began working at Les Crayères, a leading chateau in the Champagne region. He found his mentor in Gérard Boyer, the owner-chef.

"I learned everything from Chef Boyer. He’s like a father to me, which is why my food is still based in classical French cuisine. Having a basic structure allows me to bring new impact and create truly interesting recipes. Les Saisons has a signature dish called 'Black Truffle in Pastry', a recipe Chef Boyer inherited from his own grandfather. I've continued this incredibly important dish to share the essence of French cuisine with the people of Japan."

While Chef Voisin pursued this classical French path, a turning point arrived in his career about ten years into his time at Les Crayères.

An Invitation from the Imperial Hotel

Chef Gerard Boyer retired in 2003, deciding to focus his efforts on fostering the next generation. As he did, Chef Voisin also made the decision to part ways with Les Crayères.

"I left Les Crayères at the end of 2004. Just two days after, while I was thinking about my next steps, the Imperial Hotel suddenly contacted me. It’s almost like fate, isn't it? The Imperial Hotel was definitely familiar to me. Chef Boyer had also been invited there for food fairs—it's known as one of Japan's representative grand hotels."

"It was almost like a love story," Chef Voisin recalls. By complete coincidence, the Imperial Hotel also had just begun an attempt to breathe new life into Les Saisons. Beyond just redecorating, they aimed to bring in a French chef who could entirely transform the dining experience. They were especially searching for a chef just like Chef Voisin. 

"Never let a life-changing opportunity pass you by. I've always been devoted to classical French cuisine, and Japan unlocked a thousand possibilities within that culinary approach. The culture, the ingredients, and the people I met. Everything truly opened my eyes and ears."

A Thousand Possibilities Open Up in Japan

So, what sorts of possibilities did life in Japan offer to Chef Voisin's culinary philosophy?

"Miso, katsuobushi, kombu, vinegar. My encounters with different Japanese ingredients each season were truly fantastic. For example, one classical French dish is 'the soup Parisian,' a cold leek and potato potage. What happens when you add Japanese spring vegetables and flowers, as well as a katsuobushi and vinegar cream? These Japanese ingredients can bring even further refinement to French cuisine."

These new possibilities weren’t limited to ingredients alone. Chef Voisin came to lead a Japanese team at Les Saisons.

"I think that Japanese people always have a very strong drive to accomplish things as a team, and this has also motivated me a lot. Our team at Les Saisons is about thirty people in total; the youngest member is twenty years old, while the oldest turned sixty-one this July—that's me, by the way!  Everyone respects and regards one another, just like a family. In Japan, there's a culture of being considerate to others. Though I stumbled with communicating at first, that gap vanished the moment we all started cooking together. It taught me that genuine connection isn't about language; it's about seeing with your heart. "

Chef Voisin speaks in a mixture of Japanese, French, and English. His team at Les Saisons has created countless new dishes over the past twenty years.

"When I give my team an idea, they bring all of their originality together to transform it into a new dish. For example, we might come up with an iwashi sardine head bouillabaisse with a tomato gelee and shiso sorbet on top. It’s like a melting pot. Everyone at the Imperial Hotel shares a culture whether it comes down to spirit, the way they approach their work, or the respect they have for one another. New members who are assigned to Les Saisons quickly become a part of the team, maintaining its philosophy. I believe this strong teamwork stems from the Japanese national character. At the same time, what I truly value is seeing the individual sparks of inspiration and passion from each member come to life, leading to innovation. That’s why I always tell my team to put their soul into their cooking. Not for me, their boss, but to prepare dishes with their heart for the guests who will enjoy it."

Chef Voisin has fostered many talented cooks who now showcase their skills not only at Les Saisons, but also in the kitchens of other Imperial Hotel restaurants and banquet kitchens, and in various culinary settings beyond the hotel itself.

"I also really enjoy working with Executive Chef Yu Sugimoto of the Imperial Hotel. There are lots of wonderful encounters here."

Your Journeys, Your Choices

It seems the kitchen scene Chef Voisin encountered during a family vacation at the age of eight continues to shape his life even now.

"Looking back on my twenty years at Les Saisons, it has been a continuous process of self-denial. But not in a negative way. My motivation came from constantly asking myself, how do I change what I've done until now? When I wake up early at five in the morning, I start thinking about what kind of dishes I'll make that day. If I lost that sort of motivation, I might pursue a different career outside of cooking. Ever since the day I decided to become a chef, though, new ideas have always come to me. That’s been true from the time I learned at Les Crayères to my time now living in Japan to work at Les Saisons."

The journey is a source of unanticipated inspiration for us all. We at the Imperial Hotel hope to continue providing our guests with new scenes for their own stories.
If you visit Les Saisons at the Imperial Hotel, Tokyo, you should definitely meet Chef Thierry Voisin. He might just share a "love story of a life" that couldn't be fully revealed in our interview.

Information

Thierry Voisin

Born in Tours, France. Began working in cuisine at fifteen and studied under Gérard Boyer at Boyer Les Crayères (now Les Crayères), a famed restaurant in the Champagne region. Chef at Les Saisons in the Imperial Hotel, Tokyo since 2005.

Fine French Cuisine "Les Saisons"

The restaurant Les Saisons, which serves Fine French Cuisine at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, has earned one star in the MICHELIN Guide Tokyo for 18 consecutive years since 2008.

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